What Is Corduroy Fabric ?

In simple terms, corduroy is a woven fabric with raised vertical ribs called wales. The width and number of these wales can vary considerably between fabrics, giving different types of corduroy their own appearance and texture.

Corduroy fabric, or “cord”, is one of the most recognisable vintage fabrics you can find. The raised wales are created by forming and cutting extra yarns on the surface of the fabric. Typically, corduroy is made from cotton or a cotton blend and has a raised surface nap. The word "nap" describes how the fibres lie in a particular direction rather than standing vertically. This is why corduroy can appear slightly lighter or darker depending on which way the fabric is facing.

Fine-wale corduroy has narrow, closely spaced ribs, while wide-wale corduroy has fewer, broader ribs. You may also come across needlecord, which has particularly fine wales.

What is corduroy made of?

Most corduroy is made from cotton, but it can also be woven using a mixture of fibres such as polyester and cotton, depending on the types of materials used for the particular fabric.

The distinctive texture comes directly from the way the fabric is woven and finished. Once woven, extra fibres form the raised ridges across the surface, creating the cords or wales that give the fabric its name.

The direction of these raised fibres is known as the nap. If you brush your hand across a piece of corduroy, you will usually notice that it feels smoother in one direction than the other. This directionality also affects how light catches the surface and, consequently, how the colour looks to the eye.

A brief history of corduroy

Corduroy has been around for hundreds of years and has had something of a fashion makeover along the way. For much of its history, it was strongly associated with practical clothing thanks to its exceptionally hard-wearing construction. Corduroy is a durable fabric that has a velvet-like appearance and is soft to the touch. It is believed that it was used for shirts, trousers, and skirts that initially became popular in the 1700s. Some evidence suggests that it was first woven from silk and was used to create clothing for royal servants.

Cotton became increasingly important in the production of corduroy during the 18th and 19th centuries. By the 1800s, corduroy was made from cotton and was being widely used by working people because it was durable, reliable, and relatively inexpensive compared with other materials of the time.

Since then, corduroy has moved well beyond workwear. While corduroy remains prominent across fashion—from trousers and jackets to shirts and skirts—its distinctive texture has made it equally popular in modern interior design. Today, you will find corduroy material being used for everything from clothing and bags to handmade cushions, curtains, and upholstered furniture.

What are the different types of corduroy?

One of the easiest ways to tell different types of corduroy apart is by looking at the width of the wales. Wide-wale corduroy features broader, more widely spaced ribs, giving it a noticeably chunky texture that is often associated with a traditional, slightly retro look. Fine-wale corduroy has much narrower ribs packed more closely together, offering a more subtle texture that is commonly used for clothing and smaller fabric projects. Needlecord, sometimes called pinwale corduroy, takes this even further with very fine, closely spaced wales that are much less pronounced.

The number of wales is sometimes used to describe the corduroy, referring to how many ridges there are within a set width of fabric. As a rule of thumb, a higher wale count means finer ribs, while a lower wale count indicates wider ribs. Standard corduroy typically has around 11 to 12 wales per inch, while the finest pinwale corduroy can pack in as many as 21 wales within that same inch of fabric. Beyond the ribs themselves, you will also find considerable variation in the feel and appearance of corduroy depending on its overall fibre content, weight, construction, and finishing techniques.

Is corduroy cotton?

Corduroy is often made from cotton, but it isn't always 100% cotton. While cotton has traditionally been one of the most common fibres used to make corduroy, modern fabrics can also contain polyester or other synthetic blends. You can also find hybrid fabrics that combine corduroy with other textures, such as chenille, creating a different look and feel while retaining some of the distinctive character of corduroy.

If the exact fibre content is important for your project, it is always best to check the individual fabric's specifications. Two pieces of corduroy can look almost identical on the surface while being crafted from completely different materials underneath.

Corduroy fabric for upholstery

Corduroy has plenty of fantastic uses in the interior design sector, making it a popular choice of fabric for upholstery and soft furnishings. Its raised texture gives furniture a depth and richness that plain woven fabrics cannot match, while the broad range of available colours and wale sizes ensures it fits seamlessly into all sorts of decor styles. The overall suitability of a particular corduroy for upholstery depends on the fabric itself, so remember to check the durability specifications before starting a project that will experience regular wear.

Paying attention to the nap is especially important when using cord fabric for upholstery. Because the raised fibres reflect light differently depending on their alignment, pieces of fabric facing opposite ways can appear to be slightly different shades. Experienced upholsterers take this into account when cutting and positioning the fabric, ensuring the nap runs consistently across the finished piece to create a smooth, even appearance without odd differences in colour and sheen.

Among our customers, corduroy is most commonly ordered for cushions, armchairs, and sofas. We have also seen some wonderful projects using corduroy in more unexpected ways, including a beautiful orange piano stool made using our Didcot Brick Effect Corduroy Fabric In Orange Colour.

How to care for corduroy

Corduroy's textured surface means it needs a little extra consideration when it comes to cleaning and care. Always check the care instructions for the individual fabric first, as these can vary depending on the exact fibre mix and how the material was woven.

For upholstered corduroy, gentle regular vacuuming with a soft brush helps prevent dust and loose dirt from settling deep into the ribs. It is best to avoid standard cleaning products unless they are certified as suitable for your specific fabric, as harsh treatments can ruin the soft texture or fade the colour. If you are tackling a DIY upholstery project, checking these care instructions before you begin can save a lot of trouble later on.

Choosing corduroy

When choosing a corduroy to work with, it is always wise to choose the best quality that you can. Although corduroy is hardy, cheap corduroy can begin to shed fibres very quickly.

As with any textile, there are several key elements to consider when choosing your corduroy. While colour is usually the first choice, the width of the wales, the hand-feel texture, overall weight, and underlying fibre content all play a massive role in your finished result.

The nap is another vital detail to examine before buying. Always make sure the nap runs in the same direction across your finished piece; otherwise, your finished item will have odd differences in colour and sheen. If possible, handle the fabric in person and view it from different angles to observe how the shade subtly shifts as the direction of the pile catches the light.

This is exactly why ordering a sample is so helpful when selecting corduroy. Sampling lets you view the true colour inside your own home lighting, feel the quality of the texture, and test how the nap behaves before committing to your full order.

At Yorkshire Fabric Shop, you'll find a range of cord fabric for upholstery, along with fabrics for curtains, cushions, soft furnishings and other home projects. If you're planning a project and want to learn more before you buy, our upholstery fabric knowledge hub covers everything from material choices to care and DIY techniques.

Our warehouse is open for you to experience the fabrics first hand, and you can contact us on 01924 728 753 or email help@yorkshirefabricshop.com.